8000 Meter Gear Discussion
8,000m expeditions are as real as it gets. You need a lot of gear, plan it very carefully and remember that you have to carry your personal equipment on the mountain. You can now buy some of the expensive/hard to find items in Kathmandu. This page is written specifically for Cho Oyu, Shishapangma from the Tibet side.
What you are planning for?
Basically you should plan with 5 specific climates/functions in mind:
+ 7500m and above
+ normal variable mountaineering conditions
+ intensely hot mountaineering conditions
+ base camp/ABC living
+ travel-trekking to the mountain
Obviously much of your gear will fulfill multiple roles. Although there is no strict weight limit you shouldn’t have more than 40kgs of gear and, if on a guide-assisted climb, no more than 10kgs of snacks/treats.
8000 meter gear
Conditions on summit day vary tremendously from day to day and year to year. You have to be prepared for the worst. It is essential to be fully insulated with down all over and to be fully wind-protected. With so little oxygen in the air you have trouble keeping warm, even while exercising. It is normal for an early morning start, and 8000m nights can be rather chilly to say the least.
Primaloft mittens-The best are the top of the range mitts from OR (Outdoor Research), their Alti Mitts or Black Diamond, eg Mercury Mitts, and all are normally available in Kathmandu. They will be closer fitting and less bulky than down mitts (such as the Rab ones) but just as warm. Ensure they have a system for looping around your wrist or can be attached to your down suit. Cheap bulky down mittens (good spares) are easily purchased in Kathmandu.
Down suit-You normally use a down suit from Camp 2 (7100m) to the summit, but nowhere else on the mountain unless conditions are particularly bad. Underneath it is normal to wear a mid-weight thermal top next to the skin, a stretch fleece (sleeveless) body suit over that and then an expedition weight thermal or 100 weight fleece over that. Down suits are preferable but if you go for down pants and down jacket ensure the waist area is well protected. The down jacket should be one of the thickest made. Something thin like a North Face Nuptse jacket is NOT good enough. For pants, down bibs are better but down pants with braces will do. Down suits are now available in Kathmandu for around $300. Some designs are better than others (we will show you the best) but all are serviceable.
Ski goggles-These are optional but useful in extreme conditions – they tend to fog up except in windy conditions.
Water bottles and/or hydration system-You need to plan a system to keep in your down suit specifically for the summit attempt. If you have a system with tubes you MUST keep the tubes under your suit the whole time, only digging them out to drink, otherwise they will freeze, insulated tubes or not. Perhaps the safest system is 2x 0.5 litre (16oz) Nalgene bottles; they fit into chest pockets easily and are not as bulky and heavy as 1 litre bottles (because you are not carrying as much water, of course). These bottles are usually available in Kathmandu but bring from home if you are able to buy at home. That is not a lot of fluid so many people prefer a camelback that goes under your down suit; be very careful with filling it and ensure the cap is screwed down properly.
Boots-Please do discuss with me; boots are one of the most critical items. You need the warmest boots available. Generally the best are the Millet Everest (red and black in colour) but other manufacturers are now putting out more options. Any boot that features Thinsulate inner boots is NOT suitable, they hold moisture. Millet Everest boots (and others) feature a removable inner boot, stiff foam middle held together mainly with wide velcro straps and around it all a built-on gaiter. These boots, used and new, are usually available in Kathmandu for around US$550. They are surprisingly light and extremely warm but a bit clumsy. All have a built in gaiter; no separate gaiters needed. It is normal to use them from Camp 1 and above on Cho Oyu and above camp 0.5 on Shishapangma. It is not useful to have another set of plastic boots. The boots should fit well but not tight as your feet can swell at altitude. Do NOT get boots two sizes too big. ENSURE YOUR CRAMPONS FIT whichever system you are using. Grivel G12′s with an long extension bar and the latest Petzl’s with the plastic strap system for heel and toe fit big boots well and are simple to put on.
Socks-2x brand new thick socks for the summit attempt, these should be mainly wool. One pair for wearing to the summit, one for backup. I don’t recommend liner socks but if you do prefer them then merino wool seems best.
Summit day pack-If conditions are good it is likely that you will leave this en route once past the most difficult sections. This should be very light, eg Mountain Hardwear Scrambler – or use your big pack. General all weather mountaineering gear 5700-7100m: you are climbing at the beginning or end of summer and mostly it is not particularly cold during the day in the sun. When there’s no wind and the sun is shining a thermal top is enough, backed up by a fleece or light down jacket for rest stops and a windproof breathable jacket for when the wind picks up. When the sun goes the temperature drops dramatically.
For climbing-collapsible trekking poles, eg the Black Diamond range (some people prefer to use only one; that is OK)
Ice axe-There are a couple of steep sections, both ice and rock, but it is better to go light than technical, and better with a longer rather than shorter shaft.
Strong crampons-If you bring aluminum crampons bring another steel pair. Bring anti-balling plates.
light harness (Black Diamond Alpine Bod is perfect)
belay device; ATC, figure of 8 etc, whatever you are familiar with and can be used in ‘no brain’ mode
+ 2x locking karabiners, several plain karabiners
+ 1x safety line (“cow’s tail”) with light locking carabiner
+ short and long prusik cord for crevasse extractions and more
+ jumar (Petzl’s tend to handle icy ropes better) with sling/cord
For the head-high quality glacier glasses and cheapie spare glasses, good sun hat, warm hat that fully covers your ears, neck gaiter, thick balaclava, very thin balaclava or face mask.
For the hands-brand new liner gloves, brand new fleece gloves/windstopper gloves eg Black Diamond Windweight, or rope gloves with leather palms.
Sleeping bags-Best is reasonably new 4-5 season sleeping bag with at least 1kg/2.2lb of down. I feel that second-to-top of the range eg Mountain Hardwear Wraith, around -29C/-20F, is enough but this is debatable; the top of the range bags with 1.3kgs of down are heavy and not necessary, although are very comfy. Good bags are available in Kathmandu but are only a little cheaper than the USA. You can rent reasonably good bags. Having two bags can be useful, and that means you can leave one on the mountain, but this isn’t necessary. A less expensive alternative to a second sleeping bag is to bring an older, less warm sleeping bag and either add a down liner, or better, a quilt/duvet bought in China over the top. There are several other strategies, do discuss.
Sleeping pads-Thermarest (or similar) and foam pad. Sleeping on a COLD glacier, a Thermarest isn’t enough so the combination is better and safer. Pro-lite 4′s are better than thinner ones, but any will do, just remember you have to carry it. The thinner your Thermarest, the better your closed cell foam pad should be. If you go with only a closed cell foam mattress then the RidgeRests are great, and should still have a very thin second closed cell foam mattress underneath. All are available in Kathmandu.
Clothing-
+ expedition-weight set of thermals.
+ fleece body suit eg Mountain Hardwear Power stretch Suit (rainbow rear zip) or OR Saturn Suit (continuous rear zip) or second set of thick thermals or thermal top and some fleece pants/bibs.
+ set of mid-weight thermals – white or light in colour can be useful – see below.
+ plenty of nearly new socks of various thicknesses, including light or mid-weight.
+ fleece or softshell jacket.
+ alpine climbing jacket – windproof and breathable.
+ climbing bibs/sallopettes – windproof, breathable – and perhaps a thinner pair of windproof pants.
+ wind-suit. This is an alternative to using a jacket and bibs on the mountain. Some people like them and some don’t and they are hard to find. If you bring a suit also bring windproof, breathable jacket for the trek into ABC.
+ leggings/light trekking pants for warm conditions walking and climbing, especially between ABC and Camp 1.
Trekking boots-You need a set of leather boots for walking from base camp to advanced base camp and the many runs you will do between ABC and Camp 1 on Cho Oyu / Camp 0.5 on Shishapangma. The terrain is rough with a lot of rock to trip on. These boots should be broken in but still capable of lasting the expedition; they will see a lot of use. These will also do as camp shoes. Do bring all leather boots, and if you are used to lighter cross trainers, you might want to bring them along as well for easier day trips. Gaiters are not necessary for these boots, and the 8000m boots all have a built-in gaiter.
Backpacks-+ big volume, but light backpack, eg Mountain Hardwear South Col or Osprey Aether 70/85 or if going light, the Black Diamond Quantum 65 etc. Even on the guide-assisted climb, you still end up carrying a lot of bulky down gear moving between camps so you should have a large but relatively light big pack.A larger (35-50 litre) daypack with a waist belt for our acclimatization day trips.
Accessories-
+ water bottles/system for carrying 2-4 litres
+ pee bottle (that doesn’t leak!)
+ headlamp. The LED multi-bulb ones are great around camp, with two sets of good batteries enough for an expedition. For climbing the ultra-bright LED torches are the best, avoid all headlamps with normal bulbs, they break up there.
+ roll-on deodorant. You will be amazed at how approachable you still are after five days without a shower IF you have deo!
- helmet, Cho Oyu: Although there is a danger of rock fall from the lake area to C1, the whole slope is visible so you have plenty of warning. You are welcome to bring a helmet but virtually everybody does without.
- helmet, Shishapangma: There is no danger of rock fall anywhere, although you are still welcome to bring a helmet, but virtually everyone does without.
Getting snow-fried
During the middle of the day at 6000-7000m on the snow, the sun can be INTENSE. Every expedition had a couple of days where you feel breathless in the sun. It really helps to have one set of white or light-coloured thermals, at minimum a white silk-weight top or airy, loose shirt.
+ white, collared cotton shirt or white set of thermals with long sleeves
+ optional nose sun protector for use with your sunglasses. Anything will do, home-made is fine, as long as it doesn’t interfere with breathing.
+ good factor 20+ lip balm (Banana boat (available in Kathmandu) or Dermatone
+ good sunscreen
+ sunscreen that doesn’t freeze, like a Dermatone stick, or small enough that you can warm in a pocket
BC/ABC evening gear
Around base camp and ABC you can wear camp shoes or leather boots. Although climbing boot inners are warm, the sharp rock underfoot trash them.
+ Substantial down jacket. As well as wearing this to the summit perhaps, you’ll wear this around camp during the evenings.
+ thick fleece pants or Primaloft pants, eg Mountain Hardwear Compressor Pant.
+ BC-ABC sleeping bag. This should be 4 season although a fleece lining (available in Kathmandu) can do wonders. It saves you a lot of ferrying if you have two sleeping bags, one for BC-ABC and one for on the mountain. You can get serviceable sleeping bags in Kathmandu for US$200-300, and boost it with a quilt or duvet over the top.
+ sleeping bag liner. Silk is nicest but cotton or fleece will lessen the rate of grime accumulation.
+ base camp inflatable mattress (Thermarest or Exped or similar) and closed cell mat. On the guide-assisted climbs we provide a combination closed cell foam pad and an open cell mattress for BC and ABC but a Thermarest is still more comfortable.
+ BC-ABC pee bottle
Travel-trek gear
You will use this gear from touchdown in Kathmandu to base camp. Obviously there is a lot of crossover; most of this gear can be used on the mountain too. Gear storage in Kathmandu is free so you can leave a clean set of clothes there, if you want.
+ trekking pants and shirt
+ thermal top
+ fleece jacket
+ windproof, breathable jacket
+ sleeping sheet for use in the not so clean Tibet hotels, silk is luxurious and great for using with your sleeping bag too
For the trek from BC to ABC be prepared for fine weather, wind and snow.
What is available in Kathmandu?
There are dozens of gear shops in Kathmandu but they mostly sell locally made gear, ev selection of (Korean) North face, Mountain Hardwear, Millet, Vaude and other brands.
You can find good new and secondhand Millet boots, cheap thick down jackets, cheap down pants, sleeping bags, and all sorts of fleece gear (made from Korean fleece). There is less selection for thermals and the very latest soft shells. Closed cell foam mattresses are easy to buy, and this saves packing space while flying.
Article courtesy of Project Himalaya
